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Divide A Circle With A Yardstick or Meter Stick.
I thought of a simpler way to divide a circle that does not
require some kind of sensitive protractor. This new method divides a circle based upon circumference instead of angle
measurement. Dividing a known circumference by the number of desired divisions gives the distance between the divisions
along the edge of the circle.
| Circle Dividing Jig |

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The circle dividing jig divides a circle by temporarily fastening
the disc to be marked on the large rotating wheel of the jig. A 1/16" steel cable is connected to a slide at one
end, and a weight at the other end (a pound or two). The cable fits in a groove in the edge of the wheel and rotates
the wheel as the slide is moved along the yardstick. A straight edge goes over the wheel and disc and the other end
is fastened to the board to prevent moving. The division marks are drawn along the straight edge. The yardstick
needs to be positioned at a tangent to the wheel so the cable stays parallel to the yardstick as the slider is moved.
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The axle for the wheel is a 1/4" hex bolt with the head
cut off. The threaded end goes through board and has a nut on either side to hold the axle in place. The nut on
the front of the jig is countersunk to allow the wheel to be flush against the board. The wheel and disk are a snug
fit on the un-threaded portion of the bolt. The wheel and disk should easily be able to rotate without the cable slipping.
Attach the disc to the wheel temporarily using hot glue in a few small spots along the edge of the disk.
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I made a perfectly round plywood wheel by bandsawing the circle
roughly to size, drilled the center on drill press, then sanded to size with a benchtop disk sander rotating the disk on its
center hole mounted on an axle attached to the sander table. I used a ball-bearing guided slot cutter - actually an
old adjustable finger joint bit for a router to cut the groove into edge of the plywood wheel with my router table.
It is very important that the bottom of the groove is concentric with the rest, so I went around the wheel twice with the
bit to insure that the pilot bearing of the bit touched the wheel all the way around. It's probably not exactly
safe to use the bit this way with the extra added washers possibly causing it to be out of balance, but I used a speed control
to slow down the router motor. I centered the groove by flipping the disk over and making another few passes with the
slot cutter. The tapered sides keep the 1/16" steel cable on track nicely.
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The slide is two pieces of wood with a rabbet to fit
the thickness of the board that clamp onto the board by tightening the wing-nut. The cable end is attached by using
an eye screw. There is not much tension on the cable, so I just crimped the loop closed with a short piece of copper
tubing I found in my parts bin. The yardstick is attached to the board parallel to the edge that the slide rides on.
The weight on the other end of the cable is attached the same way.
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The vernier scale multiplies the accuracy of the yardstick
by a factor of 10 (if the marks are clear enough, and you have good vision). The marks accurately determine how far past the
last 1/16" mark the left end of the scale is. The mark on the vernier that lines up best with the marks on the
yardstick tells how many tenths of a sixteenth (1/160") to add. The measurement is read starting at the left end of the
scale. In this example the measurement would be 13 5/8" + 8/160 = 13.675" or 13 + 10.8 sixteenths
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Before using the jig to draw dividing marks, you must
first measure the circumference of the wheel that the cable rides in. To do this, simply draw a mark on the wheel at
the straight edge after moving the slider to the starting position - I use one inch as my starting point. Move the slider
until the wheel makes one full revolution, and the mark is back exactly where it started. Read the measurement and subtract
the one inch starting point to get the circumference. Here is a disc I marked with the jig. I scanned the disk and then imported it into Autocad to
draw 15 perfectly spaced (red) lines on top of it. As you can see, it is very close. Later, this disc will become
a gear. The darker area is a film of wood glue smeared on the surface to help prevent chipping as the gear is cut.
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The vernier scale is what gives the jig great accuracy,
the markings are spaced apart 90% of the distance between the sixteenth marks on the yardstick .0625" X 0.9 = .05625".
The same could also be done with a meter stick to give measurements accurate to 0.1mm. These marks were drawn using
Autocad, but I have provided a link below where you can download the drawing as a PDF file which can be printed and used. Another accuracy improving feature of this jig is that because we
are basing the divisions upon the circumference of the bottom of the groove of the large wheel, the accuracy is magnified
when the disk getting the divisions is smaller than the wheel. The larger the wheel is, then the better the accuracy
- but you will also find yourself wanting a longer measuring stick. I created an Excel spreadsheet that lets you enter values for circumference, number of divisions, and (re)starting
point. It will then calculate the positions where each division should be drawn. If the circumference of your
wheel exceeds the length of your measuring stick, then you can move the slider back to the end where you started and slip
the wheel back to your last mark and continue (but that introduces cumulative error depending on how well you re-align your
last mark). You will eventually get back around to your first mark and you can check the quality of your work by seeing
how well it re-aligns with the straight edge when you move the slider to the next calculated position. I used an aluminum yardstick to make my measurements with. I found out really
quick that it is necessary to re-measure the circumference of the wheel with the jig before drawing division marks because
of thermal expansion. The actual circumference probably doesn't really change much, but aluminum has a large coefficient
of thermal expansion, so the length of the yardstick on my jig can change significantly - around .050" as the shop warms
up. I tried using braided "spiderwire"
fishing line instead of steel cable, but it still stretches a little bit possibly affecting the measurement. The steel
cable was not expensive at 29 cents per foot (I bought galvanized instead of stainless) and I cant imagine it stretching with
only a few pounds of tension from the weight hanging on it. It is also quite limber.
When printing the PDF file with the vernier scales,
make sure your settings are set to print at 100%. This drawing includes verniers that can be used with the following
scales: 1/8", 1/16", 1/32", and millimeters. If you have a smart-phone with an application that can open Excel files, you can send the Excel file to it
instead of printing it out - very convenient! I use, "Documents To Go" on my iphone.
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